Topic: Dryer Duct Cleaning (Read 791 times)

OPE Paul · « **on:** November 25, 2009, 05:14:45 PM »

OK, after reading a few posts on the subject, I'm very confused about which system to buy! I've got a possible contract of about 100 lines that need cleaning every year. I figure that would be worth buying a nice professional system. HOWEVER... which one?

I'm not sure if I should go with a package like Nikro's Kit or Rovac's kit, or if I should look into a solid core system (which I'm assuming only the inside turns, and the outside sheath does not?).

I'm pretty confused as to which direction I should take. The only thing I've priced so far is the Nikro kit at $1800 CAD.

Bill Martins · « **Reply #1 on:** November 25, 2009, 06:26:58 PM »

Micky is out Air Duct Guru on this site.

davidb · « **Reply #2 on:** November 25, 2009, 07:12:27 PM »

One thing I can sire say is do not buy the Rotovac, every person I have met that has purchase it regrets it. I don't have any experience with it myself but for the cost I'm sure there are multiple options out there.

Cleantech · « **Reply #3 on:** November 25, 2009, 09:04:51 PM »

ive used the rotovac and have a friend that owns one, great, easy to use machine! Price seems a bit high, but for what it does ? i dono

maybe other units are better ? curious myself.

how much does the nikro's kit and rovac's kit cost?

enlighten us with your words of wisdom Micky

jeffvanburen · « **Reply #4 on:** November 25, 2009, 09:11:15 PM »

I bought Mickys set up its the one that the cable rotates inside the outer sheath(Nikros), I also picked up some short flexable rods and addtional brush's. I can say it has made me some money I have also replaced duct systems that were jury rigged and again made some nice money doing it. So far I've only been doing assisted living group homes but I service close to 40 of them and they are doing anually and possible semi anually in some group homes. I also use a suitcase style wet/dry vac with vacuum bag rather than a large 12 or 16 gal unit that would take up to much room in the van.

micky navarro · « **Reply #5 on:** November 26, 2009, 08:46:27 AM »

i think you guys may be referring to the rotobrush? rotovac is for carpets, rotobrush is for ducts.

my personal opinion on the rotobrush is this............

grossly overpriced machine that has very little power, and can be quite problematic. pushing a hose thru ductwork, is like trying to push a rope uphill.
the only application the rotobrush is good at in the field is cleaning the ductwork in the older mobile homes, where each vent opening drops directly into the main trunkline.
i built a machine based on the rotobrush design that has 5x's the vacuum power at one tenth the cost.

the rovac system for dryer vents made its claim to fame via the hepa vacuum they use. it is a high cfm machine, 300 or 400 cfm if i recall, but is also quite overpriced. they have a nice selection of tools though.
thier air duct vacuum is on the weak side for a negative air machine. they claim its a 2500cfm unit but in actuality its only around 1800cfm.

nikro in my opinion, give the best bang for the buck. thier equipment is high quality, and is borderline expensive.

air-care is another company that gives good bang for the buck, but the quality of thier equipment has been somewhat inconsistent

abatement technologies manufactures a superior line of machines. they are costly, and will set you back quite a bit but, if you demand top quality, they're the ones to deal with

there are those out there that will say all of the above is a waste, and you should have gas powered, truckmounted machines.
very much like carpet guys say truckmounts are the only way to do carpets. we all know thats bullshit.
i can attest to that first hand. over the 30+ yrs i am in the cleaning business, i have owned and used the truckmounted machines and the portable machines.
they are tools for the trade.

if anyone wants more specifics, i'll gladly do my best to help. either post it up right here, or PM me!!

OPE Paul · « **Reply #6 on:** November 26, 2009, 04:16:21 PM »

Jeff: What brand is your suitcase extractor?

Micky: I just found out that the contract I'm looking at would want the dryer, bathroom and stove hood vents cleaned. Do you think a system like the nikro would be able to handle all of those? Would I need some sort of rectangular attachment for the vacuum?

I like the idea of the solid sheath with a spinning core system. I might look at getting a nice vac and then see about getting the solid core cables and a conversion kit from nikro. They want $1100 for their DV15360! Where as they only want $440 for they WC15110 which is a wet/dry without the HEPA, but thats just a filter that you can buy isn't it?

Since I have never used a TM before my OP time, I'm a little confused about CFM and Water Lift... the 15360 has 360CFM and 88" water lift, whereas the 15110 has only 115CFM but has 110" water lift! What is needed for vents, water lift or CFM?

Oh and wouldn't you think that the 3 motors on the DV15360 would draw a lot of power? Think a 15 amp breaker could support that?

jeffvanburen · « **Reply #7 on:** November 26, 2009, 05:46:54 PM »

Ridgid vacuum, works fine for as much as I need, I turn the dryer on and normally clean from outside the vacuum catches the debris, I also use the blow feature to blow the internal dryer duct through the vent system, that and brushes seem to work well

micky navarro · « **Reply #8 on:** November 26, 2009, 08:24:22 PM »

jeff,

i'm glad things have been going well for ya with the vents, and am happy to have been of help

paul,

when ya refer to stove hood vents, this is a completely different animal when compared to bathroom and dryer vents.
yer in the great white north in canada somewhere, yes?
i'm not familiar with the laws regarding this type work there, but here in the states, one must be certified and carry bookoo insurance. besides, no one would ever hire you to provide hood service, without the proper credentials!!

the machines at nikro ya listed are very good but not needed as jeff can attest to. a quality hepa or micro filtered shop vac will suffice very well.
there are some single motor shop vacs with 200cfm's and can be found at lowes or home depot.

the solid core system, while it is quite ridgid, and not as flexable as the standard rotary brush system at nikro, it is much stronger, and can also be used to clean air ducts, central vacuum systems, and rain downspouts on homes or businesses!

while cfm and water lift are very important in water extraction, such as in carpet cleaning, when it comes to dry removal, such as dryer vents or air ducts, cfm is the more important.
although the 88" of lift seems weak in the nikro, if ya put yer hand over the hose end, you'd feel how strong it is.
the suction ya feel on yer palm is the vacuums creating lift. once ya remove yer palm from the hose end, that rush of air ya hear is the cfm.
one of the machines i have produce roughly 2200cfm's, and when i connect a booster, it produces just over 3000cfm's!!
whats funny is the rated lift on that cfm production is 6 static inches!!
sounds totally stupid, yes?
the air flow on that machine is fantastic, and has enough power to slam shut all the doors in a home!!

any 3 vac machine will have 2 power cords, and will require more than 15 amps!!

OPE Paul · « **Reply #9 on:** November 26, 2009, 11:46:21 PM »

Ouch so yeah, in an apt complex that kind of power requirement might not be so good. There might be 3 circuits in the entire apt! I'll definitely check on the regulations about stove hood vents, thanks for the heads up! If I hook up the type of system that nikro carries, I'm curious as to where the air would flow from, wouldn't the dryer vent outside the apt slam shut? I'd hate to have to ladder up on every single vent to prop it open, especially when I could get all the work done from inside!

micky navarro · « **Reply #10 on:** November 27, 2009, 01:26:14 PM »

if yer gonna hook up a negative air machine to a dryer vent line, it'll most definately slam shut the outside flap. may even collapse the vent line itself so be careful

the twin vac and tri vac machines will not do this unless the line is perfectly air tight!!

cleaning from the outside is the easiest way to get the job done. you also have the benefit of utilizing the dryers air flow, along with the vacuum and the brushing action.
just run the dryer in the "fluff", or "air only" mode!!

jeffvanburen · « **Reply #11 on:** November 27, 2009, 01:36:58 PM »

OPE Paul-
I followed Mickys directions and have been doing good at it. Its pretty simple I originally was making more out of it than it is. Whenever I can I clean from the outside the air flow just makes it easier. It is amazing at how many jury rigged systems you will see.

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Author Topic: Dryer Duct Cleaning (Read 791 times)

OPE Paul

Dryer Duct Cleaning

Bill Martins

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

davidb

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

Cleantech

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

jeffvanburen

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

micky navarro

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

OPE Paul

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

jeffvanburen

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

micky navarro

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

OPE Paul

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

micky navarro

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning

jeffvanburen

Re: Dryer Duct Cleaning